Posts Tagged ‘Ethiopia’

It’s been a few months now since I have returned to the UK after my trip down Africa. I have now finally settled down in Kent and all my computers are set up and stuff … so when I’m bored I’m slowly doing some videos of the trip … the two most recent ones are Ethiopia and Malawi … others will follow soon, enjoy !


I haven’t been blogging for a while as it wasn’t so easy to find internet connection since leaving Wims House in Addis.

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All of us with Wim and his wife Raheel at Wims Holland House in Addis Ababa

Back: Aisha, Pete, Wim, Raheel, Andrey .. and me

Front: Lindsay and Delilah

Since Wims Holland House (soon after the picture above), Aisha left us back to the UK and then New York for work commitments .. so she is no longer on the trip, but we have met two new friends at Holland House, two kiwis on bicycles who asked Pete for a lift to Isiolo … so they will join us for the next few days.

Well, Pete’s Land Rover got fixed eventually and while at the shop to get fixed and italian/ethiopian guy approaced asking if we need motorcycle tyres. I am sure our frantic search for motorcycles tyres made the rounds between the local KTM riders in town and he had a barely used front TKC80 for me for a price of 80 EUR which I grabbed up … really difficult to find tyres in this country.

Tyres fitted, Land Rover fixed, we headed out of Addis in some of the worse traffic ever, but soon out of the city it turned to a lovely ride. We made some good miles and around 3pm I guess we started looking for a place to camp early around Lake Langano in Ethiopia. The first place we stopped was very nice, like an African Safari Lodge, but obviously with prices to match and no camping allowed, so that didn’t work for us.

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Road just outside Addis Ababa

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Pete and the Landy in the background (with the kiwis bicycles on the roof)

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Bikes at the “pricey” Safari Lodge

We thought we would at least get some lunch or beers, but then we met a really nice couple, British and German (Tony and Gina) with their little boy, Connor. They have lived in Ethiopia for just over a year, we all had burgers and some beers … which they have very generously paid for and to top it off, they even insisted we come back to their house on the lake for the night … how cool is that !

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Us enjoying a beer with Gina and Tony (left)

We left the next morning heading for the Kenyan border town Moyale. On the way, we rode through a town called Awasa, where we made a pit stop at the Time Cafe … yes for some more burgers ๐Ÿ™‚

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Time Cafe, Awasa, Ethiopia

We reached Moyale around midday today and with the border customs (to get our carnets stamped) being closed, we have to sleep over to do the border early tomorrow morning and then to tackle the dreaded Moyale – Marsabit – Isiolo road … the worse road in Africa, they say … wish me luck !

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Roads on the way to Moyale, Ethiopia

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We left Debra Markos, Sunday morning the 17th, hoping to be in Addis Ababa later that afternoon, well didn’t really go as planned.

On the way there, once again beautiful scenery, some dodgy roads and lots of people. It still amazes me how quickly people appear out of nowhere when you stop next to the road.

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Scenery on the way to Addis

We went up a mountain and down again over the Blue Nile Gorge, on the second ascend up the mountains we went over a rocky gravel track, Delilah following shortly behind Lindsay meant she couldn’t accelerate out of trouble hence coming off … not too bad though, just a slow fall. Andrey ( the russian travelling with us on a R1200GSA) also came off twice on this gravel road … no one seriously injured though.

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On the old Blue Nile Gorge bridge. New one behind.

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The gravel track in the background where Andrey and Delilah came off

By this time Pete’s Land Rover started overheating … this went on for at least a few kilometres. After one petrol station, Lindsay said that I should go ahead while they still waited to fill up the bikes. I left, rode for about 50km thinking they are still behind somewhere, stopped, waited for a while and then I received a phone call from Lindsay telling me the Landy has finally given up completely.

I had a choice to go back 50km or go another 89km to Addis Ababa. I decided to carry on to Addis on my own.

Once I arrived in Addis, the sun quickly set and soon it was dark. I pointed the GPS to the Hilton Hotel (yeah I know … took a chance) and they wanted 400 USD per night, unbelievable. My mobile phone also stopped working, so I couldn’t get in touch with Lindsay or the others. I left the Hilton and the road quickly turned to nothing and no lights, am I heading out of the city ? I turned around and pulled into the first hotel I saw, the Jupiter Hotel International, 100 USD per night … well what could I do, I paid up and stayed a night in luxury ๐Ÿ™‚

Pete has a satellite phone, so I could send him a message via a website as soon as I settled in the hotel which had free wifi. He had to be put on a truck and was driven to Wims Holland House in Addis. Lindsay also have not had much luck, he suffered a blow out on his front tyre 25km before Addis and also had to be put on a truck.

Next morning I checked out and headed for Wims Holland House ( myself. What a nice place, beer on tap, again, very nice food and excellent hosts. It is run my Wim (dutch guy) and his Ethiopian wife, Rahal (I think). They have a very nice setup and even gave me an old used front tyre that a previous overlander left behind to replace the badly worn front tyre I have, luckily no blow out for me … but it was close.

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Wims Holland House, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

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My badly worn tyre and the used tyre Wim has given me

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New and used tyres fitted this morning …

This morning, after breakfast, I replaced my back tyre with a brand new TKC80 which Pete has very generously carried for me in the Landy since Egypt. I also fitted the used front tyre Wim has given me which will hopefully last me until Nairobi, Kenya where I should be able to find a new one.

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Robert and Clary cleaning their truck

We also met a dutch couple, Robert and Clary (, living in Australia travelling around the world in about 7 years .. amazing. They also have an amazing truck, from microwave, toilet, bbq, shower, fridge/freezer all inside the truck … brilliant.

We have been in Ethiopia far too long and I am a little concerned that I will not make South Africa on time … I surely hope so. At least Wims Holland House is very nice and is a very enjoyable stay. Still waiting for Pete’s Land Rover to be fixed and then hopefully we will head off the Kenya very soon.

It feels like so much has happened since my last Sudan update … so this might be a long one … will try and keep it interesting.

From Sudan we decided to push to the Ethiopian border and arrived just before sunset, even though we promised each other we will not ride at night. The Sudan/Ethiopian border formalities were at least not as bad as expected although we had to part with some more cash on the Sudan side … just for leaving you have to pay customs … crazy.

Ethiopian side we didn’t have to pay anything … we finally had all our passports and carnets stamped after sunset and we were advised not to ride at night on the roads …. maybe a good thing ! They recommended we stay over in a “security” compound/camp just inside the Ethiopian border. I have learned on this trip to be really skeptical about anything they call a camp site or hotel … far from it, I’m afraid.

It was kinda horrible though .. felt to me like we almost stayed in a refugee camp. They offered us rooms, but we decided to camp, pulling the bikes at the back and Pete with his landy at the front to give us some privacy.

One good thing was the shower … at least not as bad and running water .. more than other places we have been before .. running water in these parts of the world is a luxury.

The “toilet”, again a word I am very skeptical of … consisted of a hole in a concrete slab where you are supposed to squad … and it stank like sh…. ๐Ÿ™‚

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Camping in the “security compound”

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That “toilet” shack

Anyway, we survived the night, up early the next morning, packed up and left. As we left the camp site, my bike kept on cutting out … completely, when on level ground it is ok-ish, while riding it is spluttering and I thought, please not here of all places. As soon as you stop, you are surrounded by people of all sorts and for some reason all people that hang around at borders seems a little dodgy. The bike eventually ran ok and off we went.

We headed straight for Gonder and realized why they recommended not to ride at night. These roads are full and I mean, jam packed full of animals and people … all over the road, anything from horses, cows, sheep, goats … all over the place. Sometimes the cattle, donkeys, whatever just lie in the road …. could be really dangerous to try and ride at night in this country.

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Beautiful scenery on our way to Gonder, throught the mountains

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Kids always popping out from nowhere

We eventually arrived and stopped at a petrol station, but immediately we were approached by someone who apparently owns a hotel and will show us the way. It is amazing how quickly these people appear out of nowhere. We decided to follow him and ended up at Fogara Hotel in Gonder. Not too bad, running (but cold) water, decent place for the tents with a nice view and beer, so we decided to stay. That night, this mysterious man convinced us to go on a “guided tour” the next morning into the mountains where we will see baboon, birds and wolves. . yeah right !

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View from the camping at Fogara Hotel, not bad …

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Bikes parked at Fogara Hotel

We fell for it, parted with another 40 US dollars each and off we went the next morning .. a long off road ride into the mountains in a normal minibus, shaking every part in our bodies to bits. Walked another who knows how many kilometers, but at least some of the views were nice, no baboons or wolves though … no surprise there. He then ended up taking us to some old castle in Gonder, ending the day at the Dashen Brewery (local Ethiopian beer) which was quite nice and the beer was cheap. We arrived back at the hotel/camp and decided to stay another night since it was already too late to hit the road.

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Some of the views in the mountains

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Castle in Gonder, Ethiopia

The next day we decided to head for Bahir Dar, just south of Lake Tana .. set the GPS to a Hotel close to the lake, but my bike was just unridable … loosing power, cutting out, sometimes completely dead and I thought that is probably the last of trip. My heart sank as this trip was something I have been looking forward to for a long time.

Something I did notice thought, when the engine cut out it does not want to restart unless I stop completely and put the bike in neutral. As soon as I put the bike into 1st gear the engine dies. Sometimes when I put the side stand down and up again, it would go into 1st and I can ride for a while. Hmmmmm, that is typical of a side stand switch issue …. so the first petrol station we saw, I “glided” in, stopped and completely removed my side stand. I then took the side stand switch out completely, disconnected the plug and connected the red and white wires together. This way, I bypass the side stand switch completely and the bike thinks the side stand is permanently up.

Soon I also had some local help, even if it’s just holding the side stand for me while I tightened the bolt again .. very helpful people. Filled up with some petrol … and WALLAH … no more cutting out, bike has been running fine all day since then ….. sorted I think !!! Thank goodness and by the way, thanks for all the help, tips and suggestions from everyone on twitter, email and blog to help me fix this issue…. which I actually had since Egypt, amazing that it could be such a small thing. (by the way, BMW Battersea/Park Lane in London has been utterly useless and offered no assistance or help at all … I will NEVER go back to them again, EVER)

Anyway, we arrived at this hotel in Bahir Dar on the lake and we had some lunch, nice burgers, beer and pepsi. Just as we finished, Pete and Aisha arrived by coincidence (by the way, we parted ways about a day or two before as they wanted to go explore the Simen Mountains). We had some more drinks and by this time it was already around 16h00, so we decided to stay the night at this hotel. Pete, Aisha, Lindsay and Delilah decided to camp, but Andrey (Russian guy we met in Egypt who has been traveling with us) and I decided to take a room instead.

Again, someone convinced us to part with 40 US dollars the next day and they will take us to Lalibela to go have a look at the Monolithic Churches. This meant we had to leave the bikes in Bahir Dar and take another rattle ‘n shake off road minibus ride to this town. It took about 5 hours to get there, spend the afternoon at the churches, but that meant we had to stay the night.

The churches are actually very interesting .. all the churches have been carved out of solid rock … amazing actually and took 23 years to complete. We spent all afternoon looking at these churches, went back to the hotel in Lalibela, had some beers, nice dinner and some very nice local coffee. We arranged with the driver to meet us at 6am the next morning as we woud like to get back to Bahir Dar and the bikes and try to make some miles towards Addis Abeba much to my relieve as it felt we have been here for ages .. too long actually.

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Riding from Gonder to Bahir Dar

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Some of the photos at the Monolithic Churches, Lalibela, Ethiopia

We arrived back in Bahir Dar this afternoon early, had a quick shower (the hotel in Lalibela had no running water) and packed the bikes. I was a little nervous as today will prove if the side stand switch bypass has really fixed my issue. Clean and bikes packed we rode about 260km to a town called Debre Markos (another 300km to Addis Ababa from here). We found a great little hotel, again with nice food and beer and the rooms are only 250 Birr (around ยฃ10). Very nice and clean, apparently the hotel has only been opened 3 months ago. Hope they keep it like this .. Hotel name is Tilik Hotel … all the way here .. NO problems with the bike … so I am convinced my issue has now been resolved, bike ran beautifully today.

Another thing maybe worth mentioning is that our front tyres (MITAS T-664 Army special) is completely shattered already. We have to buy a new tyre in Addis Abeba and get it fitted …. this army special is crap, I do not recommend them, although the rear MITAS E10 Enduro still seems good !

That is Ethiopia in a nutshell so far … now in Tilik Hotel, heading for Addis Abeba tomorrow, probably get there late afternoon .. get the tyres sorted on Monday and then head down to the Kenya border from there …. sorry this was such a long post ๐Ÿ™‚ Laters !!

Quick update : I think we now have all our visas, Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Uganda and Tanzania. All sorted ..

Other updates, I received loads of goodies in the office, maybe too much to mention, but included my new Thor gear, looks good so far, got new tubes, OKO tube sealant, proper tyre levers, so I can get my tyres fitted (myself) … I need the practice, but hopefully I won’t need it, as the OKO tube sealant and heavy duty tubes should see me all the way through Africa puncture free, I hope !

Lindsay and Delilah is leaving next week Wednesday already … damn, it’s so close, but so exiting. I am busy packing my room into boxes ready for storage. Lindsay and I will probably move it to storage over the weekend or Monday as it’s a public holiday in the UK.

Things are moving along nicely … follow me on twitter for updates … also check my youtube channel for some videos.

Also please do not forget to check out our JustGiving page .. we are raising some awareness and funds for the Tembaletu Project in Cape Town .. watch the video below, if you would like to donate anything at all .. please click here !